Red is Back! The Timeless Symbol of Strength and Seduction
Barbie-Pink might have had us in its grip this summer, but this fall, it's being replaced. Its successor? Red. We unveil the secret of the legendary red lipstick.
No cosmetic product has such a powerful, fascinating, or historical allure as red lipstick.
Especially the color red (cherry-red, tomato-red, crimson-red – whichever red speaks to your autumnal desires) provides the much-needed pop of color in the fall, quenching every longing for the bright pinks of summer.
As early as February, the runways gave us a taste of how to wear the color this autumn. Tory Burch, Stella McCartney, Gucci, The Row, and Ferragamo all showcased the vibrant shade in outfits ranging from classic knitwear to elegant dresses.
At shows, parties, and premieres, numerous A-list celebrities have already enhanced their red carpet looks with red lipstick this year. Whether red lipstick is already your signature or you use it to accentuate an outfit or boost your mood, there's a flattering formula – and a way to wear it – for everyone.
Worn by global icons from Emmeline Pankhurst to Marilyn Monroe, the history of red lipstick is as intense as the pigments of your favorite shades. Perhaps just as scandalous, too.
Let's consider those historical moments of red lips, and be inspired for the coming season!
A Journey Through Time
Red lipstick can be traced back to the ancient Egyptians, and perhaps even further to prehistoric times. Archaeologists have discovered makeup artifacts that are up to 10,000 years old. Red pigments used as lip rouge 5,000 years ago have been found in both Egypt and throughout the Middle East.
The influence of red lipstick is felt across almost every continent and culture - from the rare red Benibana flower, traditionally used by Japanese geishas, to the royal courts in pre-modern Europe.
Its history is also closely tied to the story of women's rights. Throughout history, red lipstick has symbolized many things - from seductive power and nobility to sensuality, youth, health, fertility, and danger. It has given women a sense of strength and freedom throughout the ages.
Antiquity: Greece and Rome
In the ancient times of Greece and Rome, makeup was used sparingly. A subtly applied red lipstick showed that these civilizations valued elegance and restraint. It's fascinating to see how beauty standards and preferences have evolved over the centuries and how red lipstick has often been viewed as a symbol of sexuality.
Middle Ages to Victorian Times: A Whirlwind of Emotions
Red lipstick has experienced many ups and downs throughout history. During the Renaissance, it flourished in art and culture, inspired by the vibrant orange-red lips against deliberately pale skin. The legendary Queen Elizabeth I of England was known for her radiant appearance with bright red lipstick, which the public admired and emulated. But as with all trends, there were times of decline. In the Middle Ages, marked by the rise of Christianity, makeup was considered taboo. In the Victorian era, cosmetics, especially the striking red lipstick, were viewed as inappropriate and vulgar.
Early 1900s: Red as a Symbol of Resistance
For the women of the suffragette movement, red lipstick became a symbol of resistance and rebellion. As Rachel Felder aptly describes in her standout book "Red Lipstick: An Ode to a Beauty Icon", red lipstick was a powerful means of communication that radiated confidence, strength, and at times, defiance. Elizabeth Arden, a staunch supporter of the women's movement, even distributed her red lipsticks to the marching women.
The War Years
During the years of the First and Second World Wars, red lipstick remained a symbol of hope and patriotism. In the November 1937 issue of Harper’s Bazaar, lipstick was referred to as "The red badge of courage". In a time of suffering and uncertainty, red lipstick became a symbol of strength for women.
1920s - 1960s: The Film Stars
With the golden age of film, red lipstick became synonymous with glamour and sensuality. The iconic Clara Bow, Jean Harlow, Vivien Leigh, Grace Kelly, and Marilyn Monroe are just a few of the unforgettable beauties who showcased red lipstick in their movies. In the 50s, red lipstick became a staple of pop culture, championed by stars like Elizabeth Taylor and Audrey Hepburn.
Competitions flared between classic cosmetic brands like Elizabeth Arden and Helena Rubinstein, placing red lipstick at the forefront of their advertising campaigns. Over time, red lipstick became increasingly popular commercially and has retained its steadfast place in the beauty world to this day.
This vibrant lipstick has woven its way through the ages, remaining an eternal symbol of strength, beauty, and rebellion.
1960s - 1990s: CULTURAL BOOM
The second half of the 20th century started with a regal mark in red: The late Queen Elizabeth II of England sported a custom deep red shade during her 1953 coronation, linking this robust hue with feminine power.
Despite a brief dip in popularity in the 60s, it was powerfully brought back in the 70s, 80s, and 90s. Some of the most defining female images of these eras are associated with this characteristic look.
From Bianca Jagger, who danced in Studio 54 during the 1960s and later inspired the Nars makeup line Studio 54, to Courtney Love or Gwen Stefani, who paired red lipstick with a punky, rule-breaking persona in the 1990s.
2000s and 2010s: Recession-Proof?
"When the economy suffers, lipstick sales rise." This classic observation by Leonard Lauder, the son of Estée Lauder, was documented in the Lipstick Index, as explained by cosmetic developer Ginger King. The term was coined during the recession of the early 2000s and is often cited as an example of individuals indulging in "small luxuries" during economic hardships. Luxury lipsticks, especially in bold shades like red, are considered an immediate mood booster, costing less compared to other goods and services. Thus, it's no surprise that almost all luxury fashion lines now have a beauty line – red lipstick included – especially following the economic instability at the turn of the millennium.
The dawn of the 21st Century also saw significant advances in lipstick textures and formulations. These included hydrating matte formulas that prevented red lipstick from becoming noticeably patchy; liquid lipsticks that enabled smooth application without the need for a traditional bullet; and two-in-one lipstick-liners and crayons promising a perfect pout in one swipe. Long-lasting lip formulas remain at the forefront of red lipstick innovation today, particularly during the era of mask-wearing amidst the Covid-19 pandemic.
THE FUTURE: Learnings from the Past
What can we expect from 2023 onwards? We can anticipate even more novel formulations and technologies as new brands emerge in the market. Our prediction: Red lipstick is likely to come full circle, inspired by social media and the inclusion of men and older women in bold marketing campaigns, returning to its ancient roots of being both genderless and ageless.
It also remains a symbol, as around the world, challenges to women's rights are met not only with large-scale protests but also with a bold swipe of red. May this continue for many years to come...
Pictures: © Shutterstock
