Fashion

Is vegan leather environmentally friendly?

The fashion industry is paying more and more attention to the use of vegan leather. It is often touted as a more environmentally friendly alternative to traditional leather. But is it really as sustainable as we think?

Leather

Sustainability is an important aspect that many of us consider in our daily lives. We try to live more environmentally conscious and choose products that have a lower impact on the environment. In the fashion world, too, we want to pay more and more attention to sustainable materials.

A lie of the fashion industry

Veganism is a way of life that aims to avoid animal suffering. Every year, over one billion animals are killed and skinned worldwide for the production of animal leather. Many people prefer vegan leather (artificial leather) because it is free of animal products. However, few people know: the material from which vegan leather is made is often a mixture of various synthetic substances such as polyurethane (PU) and polyvinyl chloride (PVC).

These plastics have a poor environmental record and are difficult to recycle. In addition, plastic is petroleum-based and produces toxins during manufacturing that are not only harmful to the environment, but also to the people in the factories. Similar to plastic bottles, vegan leather takes a long time to biodegrade.

Photo of two children on the beach full of plastic waste
Since the 1960s, global plastic production has increased from 15 million tonnes to 391 million tonnes (2021) annually. Photo: Pexels © Ron Lach

It is trendy to avoid plastic. Refillable water bottles, paper straws and the guilty conscience of forgetting your canvas bag at home and having to buy a plastic carrier bag at the supermarket. The irony of vegan leather creates the belief of being environmentally conscious while walking around town in a plastic outfit. 

Besides ignorance and avoiding animal suffering, price is probably an important factor in buying vegan leather. It is cheaper than conventional leather and if made to a high standard, durable and long-lasting. It seems to be a good solution for people, who are allergic to animal leather

Alternatives to imitation leather

However, other options for leather are more environmentally friendly and vegan. Plant-based materials are the more sustainable option and are becoming increasingly popular.

Piñatex

Ananas
Dr Carmen Hijosa presented Piñatex for the first time at the PhD exhibition at the Royal College of Art in London. Photo: Pexels © Živa-Trajbarič

Piñatex is an innovative material made from the fibres of pineapple leaves. The leaves, otherwise considered a waste product, are thus given a new use. The material is durable, water-repellent and breathable. The leather alternative was invented by the Spaniard Dr Carmen Hijosa. During a business trip to the Philippines, she discovered that weavers were using the fibres of pineapple leaves to make the traditional shirt Barong Tagalog.

Mushroom leather

Mushrooms
A fungus is largely made up of the mycelium, which in turn is made up of thread-like cells (hyphae). Photo: Pexels © Cottonbro Studio

Mushroom leather is an alternative to artificial leather made from fungi's mycelium (the root system). It is biodegradable and decomposes within a few weeks. The material is tear-resistant, water-repellent and breathable.

Mushrooms can be grown all over the world, which is why the material can be produced almost anywhere. Another advantage: they only have to rise for about two weeks before they can be harvested. Big brands like Ganni, Hermés and Stella McCartney have already used innovative mushroom leather.

Cork leather

Bottle corks
Most cork leather is produced in Portugal. Photo: Pexels © Jonathan Borba

Cork leather is obtained from the bark of cork oaks, which grows again and again. The tree is not damaged in the process and can be harvested approximately every nine years. Cork leather is just as tear-resistant and stable as real animal leather. For the production of clothing, only the middle layer is processed, as this has the best quality and fineness. The remaining layers are used to make bottle corks or floor coverings.

Apple leather

Red apples
The apple leather is resource-friendly and vegan. Photo: Pixels © Hatice Noğman

Apple leather is an innovative option for vegan leather made from the waste of juice production. The pomace from the peel, stem and fibres is processed into a leather-like material that is durable and water-repellent. The only disadvantage is that some manufacturers use plastic such as PU as binders. However, more and more biodegradable plastic alternatives are being used, making apple leather a sustainable choice.

Cactus leather

prickly pear
The prickly pear, also known as nopal, grows quite abundantly in Mexico. There it is also used as food. Photo: Pixels © Fandy Much

The Mexican start-up Desserto developed the cactus leather and has already supplied major brands such as Givenchy, Karl Lagerfeld and Mercedes-Benz. The two founders Adrián López Velarde and Marte Cázarez wanted to offer an environmentally friendly alternative to conventional leather. The cactus leather is made from the prickly pear cactus and is particularly resistant, breathable and durable.

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