When we talk about haute couture, the first thing that comes to mind is the imaginary and illusionary: gorgeous robes, finest handicraft - simply a dream. L'Officiel Austria takes a look behind the scenes and explains the strict rules that apply in the highest fashion league. 

Back to the origins: The concept of haute couture first appeared in the middle of the 19th century. In 1858 the English fashion designer Charles Frederick Worth opened his own fashion house in Paris. Incidentally, he was also the pioneer who separated fashion collections according to the seasons and to whom we therefore owe the classic seasons. In 1868 he founded the High Fashion Syndicate, which is still the pillar and association of the leading Parisian fashion houses today. Because couture, is not just Haute Couture - only houses that are members of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture or are invited to do so are allowed to present their fashion under the term. An illustrious circle - after all, only 16 labels are currently permanent members. Strict guidelines apply to them, because the respective brands must run a tailor-made studio with at least 20 full-time employees and present at least 35 different, handmade unique pieces per season. This applies for traditional houses such as Dior, Chanel or Givenchy. A further seven brands, including Versace or Giorgio Armani, operate under the term &quot;Corresponding Members&quot; and 18 guest designers, such as Aganovich or Guo Pei, were counted last season.

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The rules of haute couture 
Season is a good keyword here, because haute couture is a counter-concept to the ready-to-wear shows and is accordingly a fixed point in the show calendar with its own fashion week. Twice a year the presentations take place, first in January and then in July, although this year, due to the current situation, the latter has been moved from summer to autumn. The invitations are no less coveted than the dresses - only a select circle is allowed to enjoy a seat and marvel at the exquisite creations, which are often handmade over weeks. This also justifies the high price, which can be explained by another circumstance: In the world of Haute Couture there is a rule that says that only one single collection piece or look can be sold in a country, and if it has already been sold, no other customer from the same country can order it again. The &quot;piece of art&quot; is provided with a label bearing the name of the person who ordered it, together with the name of the couture house, the season of the collection, the year and the name of its owner. Although similar garments can still be made with the technical idea of the original piece, no identical reproduction is allowed.

A look from the spring / summer 2020 haute couture collection by Ralph & Russo.

A look from the spring / summer 2020 haute couture collection by Armani Privé.

A look from the spring / summer 2020 haute couture collection by Dior.

A look from the spring / summer 2020 haute couture collection by Guo Pei.

A look from the spring / Summer 2020 haute couture collection by Alexandre Vauthier.

One of a kind... 
But that&#39;s not all, because commissioned works are also part of the paradise discipline of Haute Couture. When the customer wants to commission an absolutely tailor-made piece, everything begins with a sketch, or rather with a personal presentation of beautiful sketches. A whole team of designers under the direction of the creative director of the house will work tirelessly on the sketches, until the last moment and the final approval of the client. The fabric experts will collect samples suitable for the sketch, the embroiderers will prepare a small embroidery sample, the specialists in mannequin design (yes, you read correctly) will make a mannequin to the exact measurements, which will then also have its place in the studio forever. This is how the creation of haute couture begins, the production of which can take up to three months or more in the case of evening dresses, and up to six months in the case of wedding dresses. The whole process is accompanied by at least three fittings - perfection is the demand! It is a creative playground for designers, a celebration of luxury and glamour, a showcase of the highest craftsmanship, and a dream come true for customers every season.

Insights into the world of Haute Couture

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