Discovering Provence with Olga Leffers

HOW THE SOUTH OF FRANCE CAME TO BE

There have always been people here. Forty thousand years ago, noisy tribes of Cro-Magnons hunted on this land, and in the 5th century B.C., the Ligurs appeared. Later, Phoenician traders and Greeks sailed here, who in a short time settled almost the entire coast, one after another building settlements and naming the main of them Nicaia (today's Nice) in honor of the goddess of victory, Niki. The ideally located bays served as a great tool for trade and the building of large ports. With the Greeks came much of the flora and fauna we know today in the south of France: olives, walnut and date trees, and vines. With the advent of Great Rome, the area would be called the Narbonne Province. Later, it was from this word that the name Provence was derived. The history of the resort begins in the XIX century, when British millionaire Sir Henry Brougham stayed in a small fishing village called Cannes. The village so charmed the English sir that it almost immediately became a favorite place of rest. Henry was followed by a string of English elites and aristocracies, and then by the French themselves.In other words, the British created and opened up the French Riviera not only to the world but to France itself. Soon Queen Victoria was already vacationing in Nice, and the writer Paul Signac became a regular visitor to St. Tropez.The Côte d'Azur is one of the earliest officially recognized modern vacation areas in the world.

AZUR ART OR THE TALENTED CHILDREN OF PROVENCE

In the XX century, the Côte d'Azur and Provence have earned themselves the fame of truly legendary locations closely linked to contemporary art. Many great artists have been drawn here by the unspoiled nature, the unforgettable charm of miniature fishing villages, endless olive groves, fragrant lavender fields, and, of course, the incomparable natural light of the South of France. Thanks to the huge number of artists who have lived and worked here, the number of museums and places to see their art in Provence is off the charts, but there are some special places that you absolutely must visit.

In the heart of Nice is the Musee d'Art Moderne et d'Art Contemporain, which is impossible to miss. The museum, created with the support of the government and designed by Yves Bayard and Henri Vidal, is a truly monumental structure consisting of four towers connected by spacious glass corridors.Four thousand square meters and nine exhibition halls with collections of all kinds of contemporary art, from New Realism to Pop Art. More than 1400 works by 370 world masters, including Yves Klein, Nikki de Saint Phalle, Andy Warhol, Roy Lichteinstein, and many others. MAMAC is much more than an ordinary museum; it hosts themed workshops, meetings with artists and art researchers, lectures, concerts, and various shows. Lovers of beautiful views should definitely go up to the roof, where there is a beautiful garden and terrace from which the mountain horizon and the center of Nice can be seen as in the palm of your hand.

A beautiful family collection and foundation of contemporary art of the XX century are owned by Aimée and Marguerite Mag. Undoubtedly one of the finest collections of contemporary art in the world. High above the medieval town rises a building designed by Jose Luis Sertu, a student of the famous Le Corbusier, a true work of architectural art whose interior was created by geniuses such as Chagall, Braque, and Miró. The entire foundation area is completely dedicated to art, occupying space both inside and outside. Look around, and you will easily find works by Chagall and Bonnard, Braque, Matisse, Kandinsky, and Léger; sculptures by Calder and Arp; as well as creations by more modern masters such as Gerard Fromanger and Marco Del Re. The meditative singing of cicadas and the stupefying smell of conifers, the magical and functional architecture of José Certo, sculptures by Miró, Moore, and Giacometti, Chagall's mosaics, and mesmerizing views all create a unique space perfect for thoughtful art appreciation. 

The Foundation Luma in Arles was born from the creativity of the collector and heiress of the La Roche dynasty, Maya Hoffmann. The name Luma itself contains the names of Maya's children, Lucas and Marina. By the way, her mother, Daria Razumovsky, was Russian, the daughter of Count Razumovsky and Princess Katarina Nikolayevna Sayn-Wittgenstein.Built in 2021, designed by Frank Owen Gehry, and located in the Park des Ateliers cultural complex, Luma is a full-fledged scientific center that allows artists to create in tandem with specialists from different disciplines and fields. 

 Of Luma's main building, its creator, Frank Gehry, said:

 "We wanted to immerse the people coming in in the atmosphere of Van Gogh's Starry Night."

Foundation of Vincent Van Gogh

Here in Arles, in the building of a private mansion from the XV century, there is a foundation for the preservation and popularization of Van Gogh's works. Arles and the famous Dutchman are inextricably linked; it was in this city that Van Gogh created several of his major paintings, had a scandal with Gauguin, and went through a fatal nervous breakdown that sent him to the local hospital for treatment. In Arles, Van Gogh began the cycle of his famous night works that served as the basis for his masterpiece, "Starry Night over the Rhone". 

Arles is also unique because it offers an opportunity to see the world through the eyes of an artist. To do this, just stock up on images of Van Gogh's works (see the list below) and take a leisurely walk through the streets of the ancient town, stopping at iconic places and comparing reality with the vision of the great genius.

1. Start with the café from the painting "Café Night Terrace." You can see it when you arrive at Forum Square after dark. The immortalized cafe has remained almost unchanged; even the canopy is the same. 

2. The hospital from the work "The Courtyard" is today called the Van Gogh Complex and is located 200 meters from the Cathedral.

3. "Langlois Bridge," Van Gogh's favorite for its Japanese look and resemblance to his native Holland, can be found on the south side of Arles, just as completely unchanged.

4. Another bridge, depicted in the painting "Trinquetoille Bridge" painted in 1888, has partially preserved its appearance, at least its side staircase. 

5. And of course, "Starry Night over the Rhone," which depicts Arles at night. You can see this miracle through Van Gogh's eyes by going to the embankment on the eastern side of the Rhone and reaching the iron bridge connecting Arles with the suburbs. It is advisable to come here during the full moon for a true likeness to the work.

Speaking about the South of France, it is impossible not to touch upon the life of another great creator, French playwright and artist, a man of countless talents, Jean Cocteau. I will tell you about the main and key places associated with this man.

I've been wondering how to describe this place. As a museum or a gallery? Perhaps a cozy family home or a huge stone canvas? Giving a clear definition of Santo Sospir is difficult, if not impossible. 

It resonates in my heart as a temple of contemporary art and a very personal, almost intimate platform to contemplate Cocteau's genius. Jean had been invited here for just a few days by his friend, a lady from a wealthy family, Francine Weller, who had received this house as a gift from her husband. The offer to stay in the uninhabited house eventually turned into the fact that Jean lived in Santo Sospiro for a full twelve years, until the moment when he was literally kicked out of the door. 

By the way, it was Cocteau who gave the place its name, having found in the municipal archives the XII century name of the promontory of Santo Sospiro, or "sacred sigh." During this time, Villa Francine became a meeting place for European bohemians. Picasso, Marlene Dietrich, Coco Chanel, Christian Dior, and many others visited the villa. The artist could not stand the bare walls; he was depressed by the emptiness of the snow-white space, and gradually he began to paint. Although it is difficult to call it painting, Cocteau's creative impulse was more like the process of tattooing the walls. Later, he would confirm this comparison in his diary, writing literally the following:

"We don't dress the walls; we paint their skin."

Santo Sospir can be explored endlessly, finding in every centimeter of space the inner world of Cocteau's genius. The basis of the paintings were mythological subjects and the myth of Orpheus, whose presence can be traced in the entire work of the great Frenchman who left 200 drawings in this small house and laid elegant mosaics on the floor. 

Unfortunately, the life of a genius in this amazing place ended as quickly as it began. Having had an affair with the writer Henry Viard (intimate relations with Cocteau could not happen due to the well-known unconventional orientation of the Frenchman, especially since Francine was infatuated with Jean's adopted son, Edouard), the mistress of the house did not want to see Cocteau anymore and demanded to leave the villa immediately. It is a great joy that all of Cocteau's paintings have survived intact. After Frances' death in 2003, the house passed into the possession of her daughter, who was unable to maintain the dilapidated property. A little later, it was bought by the Russian Ilya Melia, and in 2019, he began a full restoration. One should come here to understand and, most importantly, to feel Cocteau, to see his inner world, to feel his presence, and to "breathe" the Sacred Sigh of his genius. 

In the small border town of Menton, against the background of banal city buildings, stands the bizarrely shaped Jean Cocteau Museum, created by businessman Severin Wunderman, who has collected Cocteau's works since he was eighteen years old. Designed by Rudi Ricciotti, the building, with its strange shapes and emphasized minimalism, resembles a piece of melting ice or even an incredible-sized sea animal. 

It is safe to say that Jean Cocteau's "unreal realism" begins on these very walls. The museum houses 1,800 works not only by Cocteau himself but also by such geniuses as Picasso, Modigliani, and many others. On one of the floors, there is a permanent exhibition of photographs and works dedicated to the popular actress and muse, Sarah Bernhardt. The same one about whom Cocteau wrote in raptures:

"The body of a delightful marionette and the voice of a harp."

It is the most comprehensive museum dedicated to Cocteau's work in the world.

The Picasso Museum in Antibes can be called a portal to the artist's world, where you feel his invisible presence at almost every step. Perhaps this presence of mind can be explained by how much he loved this place and how much time he spent here in his studio.

In Antibes, the "blue period" in Picasso's work comes to an end, and some of his happiest and most joyous works are born.

In 1946, Picasso was looking for new premises for his studio, and upon learning of this, the authorities of Antibes offered the artist a part of the chateau belonging to the Grimaldi family. In gratitude for this gesture, Picasso gives the city his work "Night Fishing in Antibes" and, in addition, many sketches and drawings, which would later become the basis of the collection of the Picasso Museum in Antibes. A few months later, the artist placed here 23 of his works and 44 drawings, and a little later, another 70 ceramic works that were created in the famous studio of Madora. 

In 1966, Picasso's studio officially became the world's first museum dedicated to the great master.

Ceramics, Picasso, and Vallauris

Vallauris, just a few kilometers from Antibes, was the place where the great master discovered the world and possibilities of ceramics. Here, he created and experimented with unconventional tools, materials, and methods. 

The National Picasso Museum in Vallauris is housed in a small Romanesque chapel located in the grounds of a former castle in which Picasso painted his monumental composition "War and Peace". 

Acquiring a XIV century castle located at the foot of Mount St. Victoria and standing above the gorge of the Coz River was a dream come true for Picasso. And it's not just the picturesque views or the mountain air, but the fact that this is the mountain Cézanne depicted 30 times in his paintings. 

"I bought myself a mountain of Cézanne!"

 These were the words of the artist in 1958, when he bought the land and gave the castle to his last muse and wife, Jacqueline Rock. Picasso's move to Vauvenargues was fueled by the hope of escaping the noisy Cannes, where the maestro's studio was constantly filled with hordes of gawkers wanting to see the master at work. Today, Picasso's untouched studio, full of personal belongings and objects of the great artist, lives its quiet life here. It is very good to walk through the corridors of the castle and admire the picturesque view. 

It's worth noting that Vauvenargues Castle has had some difficult moments in its history.

Obviously, this place was one of the most important in Picasso's life; otherwise, he would not have ordered to bury him here, not suspecting that 13 years after his death, Jacqueline could not stand the separation and put a bullet in her forehead in one of the halls of the castle.

Today, the tombstone of the great artist located here is decorated with the sculpture "Woman with a Vase," created by him exactly 40 years before his death. And next to the great maestro rests his great wife, Jacqueline Roque.

For those traveling by car and wishing to delve deeper into the world of artists who lived and created in the South of France, I advise you to visit the four villages of Provence and the Riviera that are inextricably linked to art.

2. Saint Paul de Vence

In 1966, Marc Chagall and his wife Vava settled in this small and cozy town. They were attracted by the special atmosphere of easy bourgeois life and the local art community. It was here that they spent the last years of their lives, in the huge house La Colline, which today has been converted into a luxury hotel that we recommend you stay in.

Fascinated by the beauty of the old vines of Provence, he set out to turn this place into something unique. At one point, it seemed to me that Paddy's idea was not to create an exhibition space but to embody creative freedom on earth, where creators can create anywhere and anything. It's really reminiscent of a biodynamic approach to winemaking, where grapes grow in harmony with their surroundings. This is also how art grows here, fused with the wine terroir. The vast grounds house a variety of sculptures and installations, including Crouching Spider by Louise Bourgeois, works by Jean Nouvel, Lee Ufan, Tracey Emin, and many others.

La Bastide is an intimate, personal place for Ducasse. It brings together and blurs the boundaries between the guests and the hotel, between the great master of cuisine and the visitor to his restaurant. Alain decorated the entire hotel himself, picking up decor items in antique stores and flea markets in Provence. The typical romantic transportation of Provence is available to guests at this hotel: a bicycle with a basket that can be used for a picnic or straight to the lavender fields.

Being in Provence and not staying overnight in one of Alain's wonderful hotels is a huge oversight, but not visiting his restaurant is a crime. 

Located on the left bank of the Rhone River, Avignon got its name from the Gauls who lived in the area in the VI century BC. No wonder the Gauls loved the area, for Avignon enjoys 300 days of sunshine a year! The former center of Catholicism, which for a while replaced the dominance of the Vatican, is a perfectly preserved medieval city, the central part of which is still surrounded by a fortress wall built in the XIV century. There is an ancient bridge that once was considered the longest bridge in Europe (its length before the destruction was incredible for those times—900 meters), the Papal Palace, where in the XIV century the Holy See was placed, and an impressive list of medieval churches, including the pride of Avignonians cathedral Notre Dame de Dome. 

There are also many interesting museums in Avignon. 

A must-see is the Calvet Museum, the former private collection of French physician Espri Calvet and today one of the largest collections of paintings in France. Also check out the Musée Angladon Dubrugeau, where you'll find works by Picasso, Duchamp, Cézanne, Modigliani, and Braque. It is not unreasonable to visit the Du Roure Palace of the XV century to get acquainted with the traditional old furniture of Provence, local national costumes, and various antiques.

In the upper part of Provence, there is a real natural wonder that is easy to reach from Nice. Formed millions of years ago by the waters of the Verdon River, the gorge is more than 20 kilometers long and is the longest and deepest gorge on the entire European continent. Surprisingly, many tourists, and sometimes the French themselves, have never been here. Following along the high stone walls, you will come across the huge Lake St. Croix, into which the Verdon River flows. It is impossible to describe this beauty in words; there are no such epithets. The water in St. Croix is a fantastic emerald-azure color! The lake is artificial, formed by the construction of a dam in the middle of the XX century. Generally, the dam has created several small lakes, flooding a couple of villages in the process, but St. Croix is definitely the prettiest and largest of them all.

Today, this area is well equipped; along the shore, there are recreation centers and special places where you can rent a kayak or a boat. There is also a restaurant with a mesmerizing view of the lake. It's best to come here in the spring or fall, as the river and lake fill up with rafters and kayakers in the summer.  Not far from the lake, around the village of Valensole, there are plantations of lavender, the most famous symbol of Provence. Unlike the lake, lavender is to be admired in mid-summer, from the end of June to the beginning of August, when it is harvested. Not everyone knows, but lavender appears in French fields quite late; until the middle of the XIX century, it did not exist in Provence. Lavender, in its original form, is a mountain plant that cannot exist on the plains.

In the XIX century, perfumers from Grasse, began to actively use lavender in the production of essential oils, creams, and perfumes, which quickly led to a shortage of the plant. The farmers then decided to develop a new variety of lavender that would be able to survive not only in the mountains but also on the flat surface of the plains. This is how lavender fields appear in Provence. For those who want to enjoy its aromas and learn more about the lavender culture of Provence, I suggest visiting the annual festival, Corso de la Lavande, which starts in early August in Digne les Bains.

Gordes – little charm of France