The Jewels of Haute Couture: From Schiaparelli to Dior

If jewelry has always been a fascination, the universe of fine jewelry is crowned by the maximum symbolism of luxury. Just like the unique bespoke clothes, they are aimed at very few customers around the world. For winter 2021/22, the creations presented during the haute couture week assume a leading role with a contemporary footprint, even functioning as part of the clothing. The classic formula of gold and precious stones makes room for other materials, such as marble, at Fendi, Schiaparelli reinforces the surreal character in maximalist proportions. The duo Viktor & Rolf transformed references to classic jewelry into precious details for dresses inspired by royalty. Check out, below, precious moments that are worth remembering and that can perfectly inspire the urban look.

Daniel Roseberry's work in body jewelry advances with even more extravagant pieces. This season, he mixes exaggerated proportions with a more classic approach to haute couture, with gold plated bronchial necklace that rounds off a super cleavage, drawing attention to the lungs, the focus of attention in the pandemic. The same goes for the gilded floral body sculpture, which required two months of work by metallurgical artist Michel Carel.

Maria Grazia Chiuri wanted to honor the talent of the artisans involved in couture after so long, presenting the collection only remotely. To finish off the looks made with fabrics made in the manual loom, she invested in a modern Haute Jewelry collection, with an emphasis on thimbles made of organically woven gold threads, reminiscent of roots connected to trees.

Featuring Kate Moss, Christy Turlington, and Amber Valletta, Kim Jones' second haute couture collection for Fendi is stunning. Jacquards grew out of digitized dresses from the mid-1800s and 1920s when the brand was founded, and then embroidered with crystal beads. It's a predicament that extends to jewelry. Delfina Delletrez used carved Carrara marble and gold in jewels that are pure work of art.

It was toying with the discussion of what's real on social media that Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren linked the spotlight on royalty, real life, or series that revolve around the theme, such as The Crown and Bridgertown. Complementing brocades, patchworks for reusing materials and raffia “skins” emerged incrustations of maxi-jewels, tiaras, and resin crowns.

The collection named Diamonds and Black points to the chic and basic color chart at the same time, but which does not hide fascination. Vauthier, who brings with him passages at Thierry Mugler and Jean Paul Gaultier, thought of a Parisian attitude to create a je ne sais quoi atmosphere punctuated with striking details in crystals.

Chitose Abe, the creator of the Sacai brand, was Jean Paul Gaultier's guest for this couture collection. Starting from Björk's look, in 1994, when the Icelandic singer walked down Gaultier's catwalk with a Tibetan-inspired outfit, Chitose, who said she was happy with the synergy between the two brands. To finish the looks, the creative director chose urban jewelry with a punk feel, mixing many layers of metal necklaces and pearls.