Summer Trend Forecast
The best accessories at Dolce & Gabbana, those oversized bags by Daniel Lee for Bottega Veneta that are already reaching cult status and batik patterns at Dior... as I write these lines, the memories remain vivid in my mind. even if in times like these, travelling to the beautiful fashion metropolis seems rather distant. So let's indulge in fond memories of the great show by Ralph & Russo, for example, or the performance by Jennifer Lopez at Versace. This much is certain: the current season hasn't disappointed at all and promises several mega- and even more micro-trends. Ralph & Russo’s breathtaking show for example, or Jennifer Lopez’s surprise appearance at Versace.
Business Unusual
A lot has happened not only in the direction of cut and fabrics but also in terms of organization and business issues: insiders were able to undertake new endeavors. These were undertaken indeed, beginning with New York City. The Council of Fashion Designers of America, under the direction of its new Chairman Tom Ford, compressed the event to five days instead of the usual week and thus provided an entertaining prelude to their highlights. In addition to several collections, the launch of a Youtube fashion channel under the patronage of Derek Blasberg was celebrated.
Moreover, local designers put on performances or staged their shows as interactive plays. The ensuing London fashion week also took on a performance character. Richard Quinn, for example, integrated a large orchestra while the label 16Arlington put on a disco show.
First Look
The ideal warm-up program for the highlights of the fashion circus to
come: Milan and Paris! The fashion weeks here are by far the most important dates of the year and this applies to creative inspirations, as well to business!
Finally, the entire international scene gathers and enjoys the shows and also the opportunity to network. This cloud is done in a particularly atmospheric ambiance of the amfAR Gala, which found its worthy setting this year the Palazzo Mezzanotte. Within an almost private circle, a brilliant performance by US pop star Rita Ora (who is currently on everyone‘s mind due to her various fashion collaborations with Escada and Thomas Sabo) was staged. In addition, the exclusive gala evening also honored Federico Marchetti (founder of online retailer Yoox and chairman and CEO of Yoox Net-a-Porter Group). His initiatives in terms of online retail concepts and sustainability are very much in vogue and have been picked up by designers like Marine Serre, who paraded their models in Paris in the pouring rain in a collection of mostly recycled garments.
Showtime in Milan
But let‘s speak of the perfect weather in Milan for the time being and follow on from the word parading: local hero Dolce&Gabbana triumphed once again when it came to casting. A small army of models presented the 124 looks with safari prints stretched over tropical patterns. The latter could also be found at Giorgio Armani and, of course, at Versace. Bottega Veneta, another major Italian fashion house, had less stylistic similarities, although the reinterpretation of the little black dress can still be found as a common denominator. The brand’s new designer is a master when it comes to the use of leather and the staging of contemporary accessories. Iceberg and Loro Piana were also able to surprise this season by sharpening the DNA of their respective brands in a unique way. The latter also provided clear evidence that brands should be visited even without the staging of a major fashion show - not an easy task in addition to the numerous meetings and business appointments that must be attended.
Next Stop: Paris!
Time flies and before you know it, you have already graduated to Paris, which, this season, was unfortunately filled with rain. Only at Dior, this worked towards a very special atmosphere - Maria Grazia Chiuri had chosen a racetrack in Longchamp as a location and, in collaboration with the sustainable design collective Coloco, turned it into a magical forest. She was inspired by Christian Dior’s sister Catherine and her great love of nature and her garden. Accordingly, the trees used only acted as a temporary backdrop and were promptly replanted throughout the city following the show.
Fashion Statements
In general, there was never a lack of defining moments in Paris. Ralph & Russo’s show is a good example (a dream in pastel-colored creations with references to the Miami of the 70s), as was the contemporary collection by Virginie Viard who clad her modern Chanel girl in cool playsuits and coat dresses. Paris, and the Fashion Weeks as such, were drawn to a close by Louis Vuitton, where Nicolas Ghèsquiere chose a video of the highly acclaimed transgender artist Sophie Xeon as a backdrop and brought what awaits us next season to the point: surprising retroelements, sustainable ways of thinking, innovative technology and fashion beyond stereotypes, with socio-political responses and statements.
Text: Svitlana Lavrynovych
