Mugler x H&M: L’Officiel Austria in talk with Mugler's Creative Director Casey Cadwallader
In an interview with L'Officiel Austria, Mugler's Creative Director Casey Cadwallader talks about his upcoming collaboration with H&M and the lessons he has learned from Thierry Mugler's legacy.
How different was the process of making this collection in comparison to your usual creative process – what was your main inspiration?
Casey Cadwallader:”I knew from the start that I wanted this collection to be a real celebration of the house, and of our classics. It felt like a big moment, both for me as a designer, and for the house of Mugler – so it seemed like a moment to consolidate and reflect. I think everyone in fashion is aware of the H&M designer collaborations – they are just really iconic. So actually, when starting work on the collection, I spent a lot of time reflecting back on my own memories of those collaborations, like the one Alber Elbaz did, which was so true to Lanvin, in terms of the design of the pieces, and the ones with Versace and Margiela ones, which I actually bought pieces from at the time, and which, again, were really about offering people signature pieces. I drew a lot of inspiration from that idea. So I was adamant that this had to be true Mugler – nothing compromised or watered down. All the pieces pay homage to silhouettes and shapes from our runway collections, but they have all been tweaked and adapted to work for H&M. The challenge was around how we could take our pieces – say the dresses, spiral jeans or mesh bodysuits – and produce them at the scale and price-point needed and with the most sustainable fabrics possible. One way we did that was by carefully working out which details were essential, and which could be stripped back to make things more clean – so maybe it’s a seam that was removed, or the number of ties or knots on a dress that was edited down. It allowed us to make truly beautiful pieces, that are in no way a compromise, but that come at an affordable price point.”
We are currently in an era where a lot of change is happening: We are seeing diversity more than ever on runway shows and campaigns. How are you contributing to this diversity and what is your message to other brands out there?
Casey Cadwallader:”Mugler is always about celebrating yourself and celebrating the people around you. The core messages are about openness, freedom, imagination, and, as you say, diversity and inclusivity when it comes to different forms of beauty and body types. Thierry Mugler was embracing diversity long before it was fashionable, and that core spirit runs through the whole collection – and is part of the reason I wanted the range of items to be really broad, and open to all different methods of layering and styling so they could appeal to a really wide range of people. We also really celebrated that ethos with the campaign and the diverse cast of characters within it. The film features a remake of Stardust’s 1998 hit ‘Music Sounds Better With You’, which is a song I’ve always loved – to me it’s about community, about friendship and fun, about how music is brought to life by who you are with, who you surround yourself with. I see it all as a homage to the house’s cultural relevance, in the world of dance, music, performance, club culture, and to the many distinct characters that have always been welcomed by the house of Mugler. It’s an amazing mix and highlights the power of diversity, and the fact that Mugler is for everyone.”
What is something you are most looking forward to with the launch of the Mugler x H&M Collection?
Casey Cadwallader:”I’ve found it really enjoyable and also a fascinating learning experience, working with H&M, and I’m now just so excited for the release of the pieces. I can’t wait to see how people wear them and style them – I know I will be impressed and surprised by the unique twists that people put on the collection. I truly hope these pieces become collectors’ items, but at the same time, I also can’t wait to see them worn and loved and enjoyed, on the street, or the dance floor or even online - wherever people choose, as Mugler is for everywhere, and everyone and anyone.”
"The whole collection was built with gender fluidity in mind. As an ethos, that’s really in Mugler’s DNA" - Casey Cadwallader
Mugler has always advocated for gender fluidity as well as gender inclusiveness. What are your thoughts on clothing still being gendered in 2023?
Casey Cadwallader:”The whole collection was built with gender fluidity in mind. As an ethos, that’s really in Mugler’s DNA – Thierry was embracing stunning non-binary and trans figures on his runway from really early on. So really all pieces – including accessories – can be shared and borrowed across genders. The tailoring especially, I think works so well across genders. And there are great bags, scarves and ankle boots to choose from. And the jewellery is really strong – there are all kinds of sculptural earrings and necklaces in gold and silver, in different scales and shapes, from teardrop to the iconic Mugler star, which would look great on both men and women. I think that the goal is always offering people freedom and choice, and I hope this collection does that.”
What advice do you have for aspiring creative directors who are trying to contribute to big changes in the industry like yourself?
Casey Cadwallader:”Just always be yourself. I’m lucky because Mugler is a house that has always had its own strong and unique identity, and has always been about going your own way, doing your own thing. I’ve tried to keep that at the heart of everything I do – never compromising, never worrying too much about what everyone else is doing. I think aspiring creative directors should try and always maintain their own voice, their own conviction. That’s a lesson I learnt from Thierry’s legacy.”
Find out more under www.hm.com
Photos: PR
