Kenneth Ize for Karl Lagerfeld: Carine Roitfeld on the shooting star of the scene

More and more brands are focusing on working collectively or collaborating with other artists and designers. To what do we owe this development?

Carine Roitfeld: "Well, it's worth noting that Karl Lagerfeld was an early pioneer of this trend when he first collaborated with H&M in 2004."

Kenneth Ize: "I agree with that. And I think it's an interesting way to continue to bring freshness to a brand. Can you survive as a brand in creative competition these days without symbiotic approaches?"

Carine Roitfeld: "I think there will always be room for creativity and new approaches, with or without collaborations. However, I think it's crucial for brands to get outside advice to think outside the box."

What was it about Kenneth Ize's work that won you over?

Carine Roitfeld: "His designs exude a joy that is very refreshing. I think that what Kenneth does is instantly recognizable, each look conveys his aesthetic, his taste, his values, and his background. I'm sure Karl would have loved Kenneth."

The counter-question now also to you: what fascinates you about the brand?

Kenneth Ize: "What first fascinated me about the brand is Karl. Also, I've always loved the collaborative spirit and design DNA of the brand: black and white with a touch of color, the use of androgynous looks. I was very honored and surprised when Carine invited me to collaborate with the brand." 

Especially under Karl Lagerfeld himself, people tended to associate his eponymous brand with a cool black and white look,e slim silhouette, and the significant collars on shirts and blouses, while you are known for colors and prints ...

Kenneth Ize: "The thought also came to me when Carine proposed the collaboration, but it's also something I loved about the proposal right away. Of course, Karl was famous for his preference to wear black and white, but I don't think that means he didn't like colors too! I discovered in the archives that he used a lot of color and prints in his collections. I also like the androgynous side of the brand and how it translates into gender-neutral looks."

As a designer, how do you approach a collaboration like this?

Kenneth Ize: "In this particular case, I was invited to be a guest designer for the brand. The idea was to implement my own design approach while maintaining the overall style codes of the house. The brand has a large archive that I was allowed to visit, and it was great to see the enormous amount of sketches that Karl drew."

To what extent have you adapted your style?

Kenneth Ize: "In this case, the brand encouraged me to stay true to my style. I don't feel like I've had to compromise in any way. Overall, I would say that adapting your style is key in a collaboration. It's a very healthy and challenging exercise that requires an open mind and the right attitude. Hun Kim, the head of design at Karl Lagerfeld, was extremely open-minded and helpful."

To what extent do you brief designers in advance to maintain the brand's identity?

Carine Roitfeld: "I always think of collaboration as a team effort, like a conversation. We don't expect our guest designers to create designs that are a copy of what the brand is already producing. With Kenneth, the interesting thing is the stark difference between the two different creative approaches."

Especially in light of your deep connection and friendship with Lagerfeld, how much do you "dare" to change without distorting the legacy?

Carine Roitfeld: "Karl would not have liked this question! (laughs!) He always told me: 'In everything you do, you have to surprise people!' And that's exactly what we're doing with this collaboration. The basic aesthetic exists, and it's up to us to reinvent it so the brand can evolve."

Let's talk about the collection: can you outline a little bit the collaboration and the creative process within the team?

Carine Roitfeld: "It's a lot about craft and working together to combine your own style with the ethos of the brand and create a kind of dialogue. I want people to understand fashion in a meaningful way. It's not just a piece of clothing. It's something I take seriously."
 

"Anyone who wears sweatpants has lost control of their life," many are only too happy to attribute this legendary quote to Lagerfeld's sharp tongue - so what role does comfort play in your fashion?

Kenneth Ize: I'm not sure "comfort" is the best word to describe my creative vision. Comfort has always been a part of my fashion, but it doesn't define my approach - which has to do with my African roots, combined with European fits.

Who do you think is driving the paradigm shift - is it young designers, big fashion houses, social networks, or society itself?

Kenneth Ize: "I think it's a combination of all four. To stay relevant, designers and fashion houses have to adapt to what society wants and how it's evolving. Influencers may play a role through social media and promote certain trends in fashion, but ultimately individuals and designers are responsible for their own style decisions.

If Karl Lagerfeld could still see and judge the collection - which would be his favorite piece?

Carine Roitfeld: "I wish Karl could have seen it because I'm sure he would have loved the collection and its interplay of colors and cultures. I guess his favorite pieces would have been the shirts and the short jackets."

This interview appeared in the Summer 2021 issue of L'OFFICIEL Austria.