Dior FW 2023-2024: A tribute to the history of Dior and the uniqueness of women
From silhouettes to muses: a tour of the new Dior collection for next autumn-winter season 2023/2024.
If you look at the new Dior collection presented this week at the Fashion Week in Paris, you will feel a breeze of the past. Dior is a fashion house with an outstanding brand history: Christian Dior, the founder of Dior, can take credit for some revolutionary fashion ideas. The 1950s in particular were an important chapter for Dior, because it was during these years that Christian Dior shaped the "New Look". This look was characterised by significant silhouettes that were reminiscent of flower cups and hourglasses and at the same time were an expression of the longing for beauty and elegance, the zeitgeist of this post-war period.
These are precisely the years Maria Grazia Chiuri looked back on when designing the new collection. The cuts are classic, elegant and chic. The references to Dior's heritage of the 1950s are undeniable: midi-length, swinging skirts, an accentuated narrow waist, the silhouettes... This ready-to-wear collection is a modern reinterpretation of Dior fashion of the 1950s.
But it was not only the fashion history of the house that was decisive for the collection, because the following women also play an important role: Catherine Dior, Édith Piaf and Juliette Gréco were muses for the collection. It was the independent and free-spirited esprit of these three women that became the source of inspiration. Each of these women, in her own way, through her personality, lifestyle and actions, managed to break female stereotypes. They are three women who have embodied a femininity that is as relevant today as it was then. A special femininity that is at once rebellious, strong and equally sensitive.
"The secret of elegance lies in simplicity."
- Christian Dior
The first and last looks of the collection are in muted, dark colours. Dark blue basically sets the tone. The whole thing is only loosened up by white blouses, tops or pieces with a houndstooth pattern. One of the tops features the inscription "Je ne regrette rien", which means "I regret nothing". It is a reference to one of the most famous songs by the French singer Édith Piaf, one of the muses mentioned earlier.
So the first part of the collection is characterised by simple elegance. In terms of styling, the whole thing is modernised by the fact that the blouses are half unbuttoned (very French!) or that the models only wear bra tops under their jackets.
While the beginning and the end of the fashion show are dominated by looks in dark blue and white, we get to see more colour and patterns in the middle part (looks 27-88). Tartan, prints and primary colours provide a breath of fresh air in combination with the neat cuts. Metallic threads and embroidery add a special something.
With this collection, Dior celebrates its roots, simple elegance and the uniqueness of women who are independent and full of esprit. Even though Maria Grazia Chiuri searched and found the sources of inspiration for this collection in the past, the message behind it is still highly relevant: strong femininity and women who become icons of their time must be celebrated - yesterday, today and tomorrow.
