Art In Detail: Insights of a Makeup Straight from the Runway
More colorful, shriller, louder: such is the credo when it comes to the current ready-to-wear collections and their make-up looks. From dark lips to eyeshadow in neon tones, this sea- son’s make-up looks are a cornucopia of inspiration for trendsetters. As is well known, haute couture opposes the notion of trends, and so it is only natural that the grande dame of fashion is neither fleeting nor short-lived when it comes to beauty, either. This is particularly evident in the latest make-up looks seen on haute couture catwalks, a true treat for the eye. The focus is entirely on minimalism. An almost devout era has come upon us in the form of perfect no-makeup looks that form the basis of, and are the common denominator in, all the different visions presented on the catwalks. Individual highlights are added: the focus is always on the lips or around the eyes. The chords are set so subtly and ingeniously that no addition is required.
1. Brilliant performance: The new “Addict Stellar” lip-gloss by Dior ensures for a delicate sheen and plenty of moisture.
2. Momentous: The latest addition to the “Moondust” series by Urban Decay is entirely dedicated to the lips. The creamy lipstick is available in four shades and can be applied as a finish, instead of a gloss.
Classical renaissance
At Alexis Mabille, make-up artist Angelo Rauseo reinterprets the classic red lips as a tribute to Audrey Hepburn. In order to do so, he chose metallic accents, which are applied to fresh, moist lipstick with a brush and then pressed in with a simple handkerchief to achieve a long-lasting, kiss-resistant effect. Guo Pei and Valentino take the simpler route: here, lip-gloss with glitter particles is used.
In line
Dior is also dedicated to rediscovering classic make-up. Peter Philips, Creative & Image Director at Dior Make-up, demonstrates a double-curve eyeliner, separated by a fine gold line in the middle.
Simply brilliant! Georges Hobeika is more striking, yet elegant. Here, the curved eyeliner is deliberately exaggerated and dominates the look. A skillful break from the sophisticated and opulent designs of the Lebanese couturier.
Eye-catcher
Smokey eyes, which have fallen into disrepute, breathe a sigh of relief: brands such as Alexandre Vauthier, are rushing to save the iconic look. Instead of black tones, we see brown and optionally, bronze shades. The result is an almost natural look that optimizes each eye shape and gently accentuates it. If you are a little more experimental, you are welcome to take inspiration from Chanel. Lucia Pica, Global Creative Make-up & Colour Designer at Chanel, bestows her models with a smoky eye using grey and violet tones. The eyelashes are only lightly darkened with mascara, applied on the upper lid. When it comes to hair: less is more. This creates a modern and well put- together overall look, especially when it comes to makeup that is to accentuate and not overbear, the wearer in a glamorous evening gown.
Summer romance
Fans of color will appreciate Ralph & Russo’s make-up looks. The playful combination of timeless glamour and romance is evident in the work of make- up artist Sam Bryant. He uses matching eyeshadows in pastel shades to match his ruffle robes and sequin dresses, from baby blue to soft pink. A concept that was also celebrated by Georges Chakra in different shades of silver and underlines the fact that you can draw a lot of attention to yourself using simple tricks. In contrast to its elaborate robes, Haute Couture’s make-up looks are not only reserved for a select group of people on very special occasions. We hope that they will soon be worn by the masses and applied in their day-to-day lives.
Photos: Alexis Mabille, Guo Pei, Dior, Chanel, Alexandre Vauthier, Ralph & Russo, Jude P./Starface Agency, provided