Menswear

LOEWE Spring Summer 2022 men’s runway collection is the energy we've been missing

A dialogue between designer Jonathan Anderson, artist Florian Krewer and photographer David Sims.
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"I hope you are thrilled." This concluded the last message from Jonathan Anderson contained in the Loewe box for the presentation of the co-ed Spring/Summer 2022 collection. A difficult intent compared to the period we are living in, but for the British designer, now is the time to return to normal. Reinvent yourself, renew yourself, and have fun. "The mood of the collection for this season is based on the idea of embarrassing beauty, which tells of our current stage of optimism," said Jonathan Anderson. "We talk about the action of going out and having fun. It was like looking at the first club culture, I wanted everything to be seen in a fluid way and not bound to a universal type of gender boundary." To better define and convey the collection, Loewe presented a new box that contains two books edited by M/M (Paris), four posters, a bag that contains three hundred luminescent adhesive stars, and a rigid bracelet in fluorescent yellow leather.

"Together with Loewe, we have published two books: one on the artist Florian Krewer, a contemporary artist who paints a new and progressive world that I found inspiring and I believe that he is one of the most talented of his generation. And a second photographic book together with the famous photographer David Sims. I've always loved the way he encapsulated the male form with its vulnerabilities. The images are very painterly and I think there is a nice active dialogue between Florian and David," said Anderson.

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In the first photo: © Florian Krewer, courtesy Michael Werner Gallery, New York and London. In the second photo: Florian Krewer "break free", 2020 Oil on linen 84 x 72 inches 213.5 x 183 cm Courtesy Michael Werner Gallery and TRAMPS, New York

"In this collection, we used a lot of cotton ribs. I felt that the idea of using this fabric as a base told something nostalgic. I like this stereotypical idea of summer. I realized I wanted some sparkling outfits similar to a disco ball," explained Anderson. "The knitwear is layered recreating a dynamic backlighting effect of the colors. We have also carried on the idea of the all-over anagram, placed on some trench coats in a neon version that recalls the music culture. This season at Loewe, we were very photographed and used cactus leather, an alternative sustainable leather that has an incredible property of absorbing color and restoring fluidity to the garment."

Trousers are made with repetitions of rope and structured dresses with metal beaten pieces. The Loewe Puzzle Bag has been revisited in a soft hobo version and in a cross-body version with iridescent colors. The Loewe Elephant Bag in raffia is also enriched with hanging fringes that amplify the movement.

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The accessories of the Loewe Spring/Summer 2022 collection

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