Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2025: Icarus Takes Flight
Daniel Roseberry's latest collection for Schiaparelli Haute Couture, titled "Icarus," is a breathtaking journey through time, a masterful blend of historical references and modern innovation. The collection isn't merely inspired by the past; it's a conversation with it, a reimagining of iconic silhouettes and techniques that feels both refreshingly new and deeply rooted in the house's legacy.
The journey began in a Parisian antique shop, amidst a trove of forgotten ribbons from the 1920s and 30s. These vibrant, faded hues – butters, saffrons, peacock greens, and a burnt-saffron brown dubbed "toast" formed the collection’s unexpected starting point. Roseberry found inspiration not in mimicking past masters, but in understanding their genius, studying the work of Madame Grès, Charles Frederick Worth, Paul Poiret, Yves Saint Laurent, and Azzedine Alaïa to glean their essence, not to copy their styles.
The resulting silhouettes are a fascinating blend of eras. The liquid deco curves of the 1920s and 30s, rendered in fragile silk georgette embroidered with Japanese bugle beads and mounted onto molded French corset toile, create surprisingly sharp, modern forms. Severe-shouldered pre-war Schiaparelli jackets are simplified and elongated, paired with flowing 1990s-style bias-cut skirts. The rigorous lines of the 1950s are reimagined in A-line baby-doll dresses, their hips padded to echo the bust and rendered in lustrous satin cuir, adorned with the house's signature keyhole, dove, and anatomical motifs. Even a seemingly simple plissé halter dress is imbued with modernity through the use of sand-colored polyamide tulle, offering an integrity and weight impossible to achieve with silk.
Beyond the silhouettes, the collection showcases Roseberry's mastery of technique. A classic Schiaparelli blazer is reimagined in ultra-suede and lavishly embroidered with silk satin threadwork. Feathers, treated with glycerin and keratin to achieve a unique texture reminiscent of vintage Hollywood glamour, add a touch of playful drama. The atelier’s meticulous craftsmanship is evident in every detail, from the construction of corsets in toile, covered in fine layers of wool and cotton and stretched with elastic silk satin, to the intricate embroidery of shoes and bags, treated like precious jewels.
Roseberry's latest collection is a testament to the enduring power of Haute Couture, it's a celebration of the past, a bold step into the future, and a reminder of the relentless pursuit of perfection that defines the house of Schiaparelli.
