Scarf: The Multiple Personalities

To be or not to be is not the question for fashion items. Why be and how to be popular?! Plato’s Cave started the discourse about human perception and the true purpose of things. What is the essence of a scarf then? Can it fall a victim to stereotypes, a prisoner of its wearers’ actions? As its original intent changes between a style accessory, a military code, a political statement, it is amazing how a simple strip of fabric can continue to become such a versatile symbol of its times.

Fashion historians trace evolution of the scarf as a must-have item from the conquests over two thousand years ago. Both the ancient Chinese warriors and Roman legionnaires tied elongated pieces of fabric around the mouth to protect themselves from inhaling dust on long voyages and in battle. The first distinctive features appeared around the same time to identify military leaders. Their scarves were red in color with twisted golden tassels. As time went on, the scarf quietly waged its own war on aesthetics and utility. Eventually, its design softened into an efficacious cravat which was destined to take over the world.

Fast forward to Paris and the first of its prophetic fashion statements. King Louis XIV fell in love with a strikingly elegant accessory seen on visiting Croatian officers. The Sun King adopted the cravat and the royal court quickly followed suit. The scarf thus became a new visible sign of nobility. Its glorious victories were left in the past as it proudly entered a different battlefield of ballrooms and salons, sweeping its delicate influence across Europe. By the 19th century, progressively narrowing and lengthening neck scarves turned into an integral part of a gentleman’s wardrobe and subsequently a businessman's suit. The Victoria, Albert, Windsor, and Semi-Windsor classic tie knots are nominally associated with the British royal family. However, there is no historical evidence tying the tie [pun intended] to the Buckingham Palace. Fashion and politics are all about optics and quick judgements.

Elsewhere, the scarf had found another eloquent purpose and rich style. In Muslim countries and communities, the hijab became an expression of faith. The power of the veil maintains its mystique and controversy. As modest fashion substantially expands in market share, the diversity of Arab scarfs will enrich the intercultural style discourse. For example, the kaffiyeh has a fascinating story. Appearing as a necessary safeguard against the scorching sun, it became a symbol of protest when the Palestinian refugees popularized its red and white or black and white iconic pattern. While some have worn it around the world as a fashion statement, more and more people are aware of its political stance as well.

Now the scarf is not only a bright accessory for any outfit, but also an element of vital protection! Research suggests it can help prevent the spread of coronavirus infection, serving as a barrier whenever a special mask is not available. By the way, the medical masks appeared in Europe in the late 19th century, when surgeons realized they could thus reduce the number of bacteria exchanged with the patient’s body during surgery. Many fashion brands, from luxury to fast fashion, have already redesigned their product lines to adapt to COVID-19 realities. Some designers merged the scarf and the mask for a new kind of fashion accessory. As the world slowly emerges from coronavirus pandemic, perhaps some form of personal protective equipment will stay in our basic wardrobe for good.